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Mulching
Mulching offers multiple benefits in the landscape. Neutral-colored mulch sets off colorful ornamental plants from the surrounding lawn or pavement, providing visual appeal. But it does much more than beautify the landscape; according to the TruGreen ChemLawn Lawn and Landscape Institute, mulch also helps maintain strong and healthy plants.
Good organic mulch materials include pine needles, bark, shredded cypress or cedar (which also has good insect-repellant properties).
Advantages to Mulching
Mulching helps ornamental plants:
- Conserve moisture
- Maintain a more uniform temperature in the root zone
- Become established more quickly in a weed- and grass-free area
Other benefits of mulching include:
- Preventing mechanical injury caused by lawn mowers and weed-eaters
- Improving soil structure, where organic mulches are used
- Limiting weed growth
Lay It On
Like compliments, you don't want to lay it on too thick. A good rule of thumb is to apply a layer of mulch that's one to three inches deep. Any thicker, and roots will begin growing in the mulch (where they are more susceptible to drought and low temperatures) instead of the soil. Mulch can accumulate over time, so check the existing depth before adding more.
Other Tips
Make sure that your mulch does not layer against the base or trunk of the plant. It could cause decay and winter injury. Also, plastic is not recommended as mulch material, as it does not decompose and can trap excess moisture. You also want to avoid using plastic under mulch, because the soil underneath the plastic will dry out, inhibiting the growth of deep plant roots that better withstand climate extremes.
Frequently Asked Questions
I heard from our county extension agent that mulching is beneficial to my landscape. Is it possible to use too much mulch?
Yes, it is possible to use too much mulch. The mulch layer should be approximately two to three inches deep. As the mulch decomposes, add more to maintain this optimum depth. Also, do not mulch right up to the base of trees and shrubs.
Is it necessary to apply mulch around plants each year?
No. Only apply mulch when needed to maintain a two-to-three inch layer. Any thicker layer of mulch may cause problems. You can rake the mulch to give it a new look.
Is spring a good time to apply mulch around my trees and shrubs?
Yes. However, wait until the soil has a chance to warm up. Maintaining a two- to three-inch layer of mulch is all that is necessary.
Should I mulch annual flowers?
While it is not necessary to mulch annuals, these plants will benefit by retaining more water. The greatest results will be in areas that tend to dry out rapidly. Apply the mulch at a depth of one inch around annuals.
 
 
 
Weed Control
What you can't see now can hurt your
lawn's appearance later. While your lawn lies dormant and weather conditions tend to be wetter in many areas, spring and summer weeds could be lurking in the grass. Research by the TruGreen ChemLawn Lawn and Landscape Institute reveals that lawns that have been thinned by disease or insects are especially susceptible to invasions of weedy grasses and broadleaf weeds.
Without taking preventive measures at the right time, you could be facing a patchwork of color and texture within your lawn. Weedy grasses often contrast greatly with desirable turfgrasses and can be difficult to eliminate once
they've become established in your lawn. Broadleaf weeds, such as dandelions that rise well above the turf and produce flowers, are even more visible within a uniform carpet of green.
Unwelcome Guests
Weeds also pose a major problem in landscape beds in spring. Instead of hand weeding, you may be able to use a pre-emergent herbicide to control weeds that grow from seed as the weather warms up. Read labels carefully before selecting and using any of these products to make sure they are best suited to your particular weeds and
won't damage surrounding plants.
Grassy invaders
Grassy weeds, or unwanted grasses growing in the lawn, can be subdivided into annual and perennial grasses. Annual grassy weeds, such as crabgrass and annual bluegrass, are generally easier to control than perennial grassy weeds like dallisgrass and bentgrass. However, annual grassy weeds are also notorious for their ability to produce seed. This makes them difficult to eliminate totally from your lawn and explains their survival from year to year. A well-timed treatment prior to spring germination can prevent a summer invasion of crabgrass, foxtail and sandbur grasses. Left uncontrolled from seed, crabgrass alone can choke out desired turf grasses and develop ugly seedheads in the fall that lay the groundwork for next
season's crop.
Perennial grasses generally grow in hardy clumps (dallisgrass, orchardgrass, and tall fescue) or through very aggressive creeping stems (quackgrass, bermudagrass, bentgrass, and nimblewill). The challenge is removing perennial grassy weeds without harming the lawn grass
you've worked so hard to cultivate.
Broadleaf weeds
Broadleaf weeds are characterized by their growth pattern. Plants that grow from the center of the plant are called rosette weeds, while weeds that sprawl along the surface of the ground are known as creeping weeds.
Common rosette weeds
Dandelions, plantains, and docks are examples of rosette weeds. Their leaves radiate from one central point on a very short stem that barely rises above soil level, making them almost impossible to pull cleanly from the ground. In addition, these plants produce flowers on the tops of tall stalks, further ruining the look of your lawn.
Common creeping weeds
Clover, chickweed, and lespedesa are creeping weeds that can create the appearance of large unsightly patches in the lawn, especially if several of the weed plants overlap each other. As the stems radiate from a central point and hug the ground, they can establish roots at multiple points. This makes them more difficult to remove, and when they are pulled, they can leave large bare spots in your lawn.
Dealing with Weeds
How can I get rid of crabgrass?
Crabgrass is an aggressive weedy lawn grass that emerges each spring from seed. Mow your lawn high to thicken it and reduce the ability of crabgrass to establish in your lawn. If you use a crabgrass preventive, it must be applied before seed germinates in late spring.
I treated my lawn last summer for dandelions, yet they always seem to reappear in spring. Why?
Dandelions set seed in puffballs that are released by the wind and can be blown from one lawn to the next. Most dandelion seed germinates in the fall. The plants you see in your lawn this spring probably germinated after you applied a weed control last summer. Reapply a control product this spring once air temperatures rise to the proper level for the materials to work.
How do I control wild violets?
Wild violets are perennial plants that emerge each spring, forming beautiful, delicate flowers in late April to early May. Control is very difficult and usually requires a formulated application of a weed control product in spring for best results. Control will take more than one application over several seasons. Wild violets are favored by moist, shaded growing conditions. Eliminating the weed without considering site conditions is a short-term solution to this
weed's persistence
Mowing
Often delegated to the nearest teenager looking for extra cash, mowing might seem to be a necessary and goof-proof chore. But when you see the difference between a well-mowed lawn and one that's mowing-challenged, it makes sense to give your lawn the best possible trim.
A properly mowed lawn grows thicker and has deeper roots, which makes it more durable and better equips it to combat weeds, insects and diseases. According to the TruGreen ChemLawn Lawn and Landscape Institute, mowing mistakes can show up in discolored grass tips, brown spots and even damage to the lawn.
According to the experts at the TruGreen ChemLawn Lawn and Landscape Institute, the most common mowing mistakes are mowing too infrequently and cutting grass too short.
Here's what they advise to watch for:
Scalping
Avoid letting grass grow tall and then removing more than 1/3 of the leaf blade. This approach is "scalping" and can damage the lawn. Mowing the grass extremely low can also damage the lawn by cutting into the crowns of the plants.
Sharp blades
Make sure your mower blades are sharp to cut cleanly. Dull blades can shred grass and cause discoloration at the tips. Frayed grass blades lose too much moisture to rapid evaporation. Sharpen the blades of rotary mowers several times each growing season. Reel type mowers usually only require sharpening once a year, but adjust them to ensure they cut cleanly. Some grass species have tough-to-cut blades, which causes blades to wear quickly.
Damaged grass
Raise the mower height a notch or two when mowing a lawn that's recovering from drought, insect damage or disease.
Grass clippings
Recycle grass clippings on your lawn to reduce water loss, lower soil temperatures and return nutrients to the soil. Save the trouble of bagging and keep clippings out of our already-clogged landfills. In fact, many communities will not accept grass clippings in household trash. Furthermore, if the lawn is mowed frequently, clippings degrade very quickly and do not contribute to thatch build-up.
Wet or wilted grass
Avoid cutting wet grass, which can cause clippings to clump together and smother your lawn, creating brown spots. Especially during the hot part of the day, cutting wilted grass can also cause severe damage to your lawn.
How low to mow
Select the proper mowing height for your lawn. Measure the grass plants after mowing a very small area, then adjust your mower as necessary. Always mow your lawn at the recommended cutting height. Optimal mowing height in inches:
| Hybrid Bermudagrass |
0.5 to 1.0 |
| Common Bermudagrass |
1.0 to 1.5 |
| St. Augustinegrass, Bahiagrass |
3.0 to 3.5 |
| Zoysiagrass |
1.0 |
| Centipedegrass |
1.0 to 1.5 |
| Ryegrass, bluegrass, fine fescue |
2.5 to 3.0 |
| Tall fescues |
2.5 to 3.0 |
Know when to mow
The best guide on mowing frequency is the growth of your grass: plan on cutting off less than 1/3 of the grass blade in one mowing. Keep in mind that certain grasses, such as bermudagrass, zoysiagrass and centipedegrass, require close mowing to stay healthy. Allow these grasses to grow too high and their stolons and crowns tend to grow upright, promoting thatch development.
So you miss a mowing
During periods of rapid growth, lawns may require mowing as frequently as every three to four days. Of course, sometimes we just don't get around to mowing as often as we'd like. In these situations, when your grass has grown too high, reset your mower to its highest cutting level. Three or four days later, reset the mower to cut at the normal height, and mow your grass again.
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